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Among the changes in Windows 3.1 include a drop of real mode support (see more below), the removal of the Reversi game, updated icons with richer colors, an improved setup process with better hardware detection, and the introduction of batch install. Repeat for the second piece of elastic near the top of the headpiece body.Microsoft Windows 3.1 was an evolution to Windows 3.0 and undoubtably the most popular, poster child version in the Windows 3.x series. Sew it to the other side of your bottom foam piece. This is to accommodate the fact that the elastic will stretch while you wear it, which will keep it in place. Measure 1 inch back (shorter) from the place where you're holding the elastic and cut it there. Hold the place where it would join the other side of the headpiece between your finger and thumb. I recommend pulling the elastic loosely, so you're not stretching it. Pull the elastic around the back of your head.

To figure out how much elastic to use, hold the piece of foam up to your face, just like you did with the paper template before. There are two strips of elastic in total, so plan for one near the bottom and one just below the peak of the headpiece base. I would also recommend that you sew it facing upwards so that the elastic will be sandwiched between the two pieces of foam when they're eventually put together. Make sure that the raw edge of the elastic is far enough away from the edge of the foam piece that it won't tear if stretched. Start by sewing your elastic to one side of the foam piece. The next step is sewing the elastic to this piece of foam. The remaining piece of foam cutout is the bottom of the headpiece and is the part that will make contact with your head when you wear it. Stage 4: Put it all togetherДЄt this stage, you have the body of the headpiece with a raised rim, one foam cutout, two papier-mГўchГ© horns, and a papier-mГўchГ© centre detail. Use masking tape to secure it further if you need to. At this stage, you should have these pieces:Д¬ut out a small square of cardboard and glue the base of the horn to this piece of cardboard. When you cut the curve, make sure you cut it in the opposite direction. Since you want your horns to taper, cut a curve at the top of the strip.Д¬ut one more long, thin strip with the same dimensions as your first one. The length should be the same as the length of the template that you just measured.

If you don't have a flexible ruler, it's perfectly fine to eyeball it (which is what I did).Д¬ut out a strip of cardboard, the width of which should be half the diameter of your horn base (1.5 cm if you chose to make your measurements the same as mine). If you have a flexible ruler, simply curve your ruler to align with the curve of the template. Use your ruler to measure the length of your horn template down the middle, accounting for its curvature. Save one set and use the other set for the headpiece. If you want to keep a copy of the cardboard templates for the horns and the centre detail, trace around them and make new ones. Remember those cardboard templates you made for the horns and centre detail back in Stage 1? You'll need them in the construction of the headpiece itself. Stage 3: Make the horns and centre detail (Photo: Sebastian YЕ«e)Д¬over the whole thing with a coat of white glue, spreading it evenly so it doesn't clump. The two pieces are stacked in place as they will be during the final assembly. Using your reference images, sketch half of the shape you want for the body of your headpiece.

A stiff, curved object to hold the shape of your headpiece while it driesДЇold a sheet of scrap paper in half widthways.

You may need a larger size or more sheets depending on how big your headpiece will be).

Craft foam (I used two sheets of 12'x18'/30.4 cm x 45.7 cm foam.

An empty cereal box or other thin cardboard paper.

Approximately 20 sheets of letter-sized scrap paper.

1 oz/30 ml of gold acrylic paint, 1 oz/30 ml.

A ruler (flexible ruler preferred but not mandatory).

Reference images for the headpiece (use stills from the show and/or panels from the comics, both of which you can find by doing a quick internet search).

It's based on the headpiece that Loki wears in the Agent of Asgard comics, but you can easily tweak its design if you want to use it for the President Loki variant, who appears in the Disney+ show and comic miniseries. Even if you're an experienced cosplayer, you can make this and save your money - it'll look fantastic. This was the first cosplay accessory that I ever made myself and I can attest that it's both beginner friendly and affordable. I'll walk you through all the steps needed to make a beautiful headpiece that you can wear again and again.

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Whether you're a longtime cosplayer and follower of the God of Mischief, or a new fan who found him in the Disney+ series LOKI looking to be him for Halloween, this guide is for you.

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